Foto: Sigurd Ekeli Grimsby
FOTO: Sigurd Ekeli Grimsby

Haikyo: Japan's ghost resorts

The powder paradise for freeriders known for its exceptionally light and dry snow, is also home to over 300 abandoned ski resorts.

Sist oppdatert: 28. mai 2024 kl 14.33

A powder paradise like no other. Incredible of amounts of snow, but why are hundreds of overgrown ski resorts left?

In the 80s, the Japanese economy flourished. With the economic growth came a wave of investment in ski resorts, as people had more free time and money for recreation. This, together with a growing interest in winter sports and the Olympics in Sapporo, the ski resorts grew out like mushrooms after rain, and Japan quickly became an attractive destination for skiing enthusiasts both domestically and abroad.

POWDER MECCA: Freerider Gen Sasaki deep in bottomless powder at his home course in Niseko. Photo: Sigurd Ekeli Grimsby
POWDER MECCA: Freerider Gen Sasaki deep in bottomless powder at his home course in Niseko. Photo: Sigurd Ekeli Grimsby

But like every other wave, this one also came to an end. The economic bubble burst in the 90s, and many ski resorts had to close their doors due to financial difficulties.

Gen Sasaki, a professional freerider, has been a witness to the downfall of several resorts and the changes in Japan's skiing culture over the years. He grew up in the most popular ski destination in Japan, Niseko.

– Skiing was very popular in Japan back in the day. Older skiers told me about the skiing scene in Japan in the past, and I also learned about it through the media, says Gen.

Gen Sasaki. Foto Sigurd Ekeli Grimsby
Les også

During the bubble between 1981 and 1993, the number of skiers increased from 8.6 million in 1981 to a peak of 17.7 million in 1993. After this peak, the number fell drastically, and in 2006 there were only 6.1 million skiers left (Data from Leisure Development Centre).

 
– When I watched old Japanese ski movies, I could feel the difference in the atmosphere from today.
FOTO: Sigurd Ekeli Grimsby
– When I watched old Japanese ski movies, I could feel the difference in the atmosphere from today.
 

The demand for ski facilities decreased drastically, and many of these facilities were abandoned and forgotten. Now they remain as ghost towns, silent witnesses to a time of abundance and optimism.

CULTURAL CONTRAST: The abandoned ski resorts remain as ghostly monuments in the Japanese countryside, and stand in stark contrast to the cultural values ​​that are often valued in Japanese society. Photo Sigurd Ekeli Grimsby
CULTURAL CONTRAST: The abandoned ski resorts remain as ghostly monuments in the Japanese countryside, and stand in stark contrast to the cultural values ​​that are often valued in Japanese society. Photo Sigurd Ekeli Grimsby

According to The Japan Times, Japan reached a peak of over 700 active ski resorts in the 1990s. Even the USA cannot match the "small" ocean island in terms of active ski resorts, which despite declining growth, is still the country with the most ski resorts in the whole world.

GHOST TOWN IN FURUBIRA: Some facilities have been abandoned in haste, with lifts and buildings untouched for years. Photo: Sigurd Ekeli Grimsby
GHOST TOWN IN FURUBIRA: Some facilities have been abandoned in haste, with lifts and buildings untouched for years. Photo: Sigurd Ekeli Grimsby

Other factors have also played a role in the decline of ski resorts in the country. According to a research article on changes in Japanese ski tourism (Masaaki Kureha), global warming has had a negative impact on snow conditions in parts of Japan.

Climate change has led to difficulties for regions with more unfavorable conditions, which has subsequently led to a downward trend for skiing. This is with the exception of northern Hokkaido and high altitude areas.

 
Why are they still standing?
FOTO: Sigurd Ekeli Grimsby
Why are they still standing?
 

A cultural breach

The abandoned ski resorts represent a contrast to the Japanese values ​​of aesthetics, care for the environment and community pride. These values ​​stand strong in Japan, but the abandoned facilities reveal a breach of these ideologies and recall a time of economic abundance that could not be sustained.

– I love nature, so I don’t like seeing old things and trash lying around, so it makes me sad to see abandoned ski resorts like that, says Gen.

HAIKYO: Japanese for ruins and is composed of the characters 廃 = "useless," 墟 = "hill". Photo: Sigurd Ekeli Grimsby
HAIKYO: Japanese for ruins and is composed of the characters 廃 = "useless," 墟 = "hill". Photo: Sigurd Ekeli Grimsby

Gen further explains how there are no people or companies interested in redeveloping the resorts. However, he mentions that around Niseko, while the old lifts haven't been repaired, the resorts still offer cat skiing, and he has heard about redevelopment plans for the area.

– I feel relieved and hopeful that the old lifts will be replaced in the future, he says.

ABANDONED: Out of over 700 facilities, just over 400 remain. Photo Sigurd Ekeli Grimsby
ABANDONED: Out of over 700 facilities, just over 400 remain. Photo Sigurd Ekeli Grimsby

Foreign Tourism

The 80s-90s market can be regarded as an oversupply of ski resorts, which have straightened out over time. Although winter sports have decreased among the Japanese people, foreign tourism has increased. The rest of the world and especially its time zone-neighbors in Australia have acquired a taste for Japanese powder.

Especially in Niseko, the English speakers have had a great influence since the 2000s. Street signs and logos are in English. Many accommodation facilities, restaurants and lift facilities are now owned by foreigners. Here we will find people who don't necessarily live in Niseko, but only have a business base there. Even the American season pass IKON is valid in the Japanese facility.

PIZZA BOX: Old lifts still in operation is no rare sight in Japan. This is the famous "pizza box" chairlift in Niseko. Photo: Sigurd Ekeli Grimsby
PIZZA BOX: Old lifts still in operation is no rare sight in Japan. This is the famous "pizza box" chairlift in Niseko. Photo: Sigurd Ekeli Grimsby

– When I was a child, there were already foreigners living in Niseko and tourists coming to ski, but there were far fewer than now—maybe even less than one-fifth, Gen explains.

The global ski tourism has given new vitality to some of the remaining ski resorts. Japanese powder snow still attracts enthusiasts from all over the world. Still, the contrast between the modern, busy facilities and the abandoned, silent ghost facilities stands as a reminder of the ups and downs of the past.

FORTIDSRELIKVIER: Et offentlig toalett og en brusautomat som fortsatt står etter 20 år. Foto: Sigurd Ekeli Grimsby
ENDURUNG RELICS: A restroom and vending machine still standing after 20 years. Photo: Sigurd Ekeli Grimsby

Special thanks to Andrew with SnowJapanHistory.com, for help and mapping out the abandoned resorts.

Publisert 28. mai 2024 kl 14.04
Sist oppdatert 28. mai 2024 kl 14.33
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